Why visit Bandung?

I always look forward to going to Bandung from Jakarta because I LOVE trains! The Whoosh! is fun and you get to see the gorgeous jade and emerald green landscapes whizzing by – as you keep glancing up just to see how fast you are going on the digital screen at the front of the carriage. It is another fairly polluted and traffic clogged city but it is surrounded by beautiful mountains and it is not as savagely hot to walk around as Jakarta. There are beautiful art deco facades, a vibrant coffee culture (if you like coffee) and there is always something interesting for at least one of your senses at any given time. Go there with an open mind and see what you might discover!

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A bland brief background of Bandung

Bandung sits in the Bandung Basin, which was formed by the ancient volcano Mount Sunda. Back in prehistoric times, there was a lake here. At 725 metres above sea level, Bandung is cooler than most major cities in Indonesia. Temperature and hipster wise. Lots of universities and young people milling about on the streets!

During the 17th and 18th centuries, the Dutch East Indies Company (VOC) – a viciously imperialist group of unwelcome visitors to the unsuspecting and quite content as they were Sundanese people – took advantage of the fertile land and set up tea plantations in the area. These plantations were especially productive thanks to the surrounding Parahyangan Mountains. Then, in the 19th century, a gentleman named Franz Junghuhn introduced the cinchona (kina) plant, used to produce quinine — a treatment for malaria. Side note- there are a lot of mosquitoes in Java- bring your personal repellent!

Because of its cooler climate and scenic, elevated landscape, Bandung evolved into an exclusive resort area for Europeans. A road was built to connect the plantation region with Batavia (now Jakarta), which was the colonial capital at the time. The human cost of making these thoroughfares is a story for another time and makes you appreciate how difficult it was to create a network of roads 150 plus years ago. 

Since Bandung lies in a river (lake?)  basin surrounded by volcanic mountains, it offered natural defenses, which led the Dutch East Indies government to consider moving the capital from Batavia to Bandung. Starting in the early 1920s, they began constructing military barracks, what’s now the iconic Gedung Sate ( a building which apparently looks like it has a sate stick on its main roof) and other government buildings to support the move. But then World War II happened, and after Indonesia declared independence in 1945, the Dutch did not re-establish their colony — so the capital stayed put.

In the early 20th century, Bandung also developed a reputation as a resort city for plantation owners. Think fancy hotels, stylish European boutiques, and upscale restaurants. I particularly like the Art Deco style. I have almost had some pot hole induced injuries by not looking where I am going as I am busy looking up at the faded grandeur of the building facades along the major inner city roads. That’s how it earned the nickname “Parijs van Java” (The Paris of Java)” — thanks to its European-style architecture and atmosphere.

Post-independence, Bandung kept growing. Urbanisation took off and the city started to transform into a dense metropolitan area. Extremely dense. Hotels, bridges, gardens, and high-rise buildings sprang up. But with all that growth came problems: waste management, flooding, and a traffic system that can’t quite keep up, mostly due to a lack of planned infrastructure. On top of that, there’s been some serious exploitation of natural resources, especially in the upland areas that have been converted into villas and real estate. 

How to get there

Bandung is about 150 kilometres southeast of Jakarta. Getting there from the capital can be a bit of a choose-your-own-adventure situation, depending on your preferred mode of transport:

• Whoosh (High-Speed Train): Indonesia’s new bullet train gets you from Jakarta’s Halim Station to Padalarang Station in around 40 minutes, followed by a ~20-minute shuttle ride into Bandung proper.
• Conventional Train: This is the scenic route. It takes around 3–3.5 hours from Gambir Station, depending on the train class and number of stops. It’s slower, but more relaxed.
• If you choose to drive a car or take the bus but be forewarned of possibly sitting in traffic until you are old. A motorbike is quicker but you have to be vigilant on the roads!

Bandung has a labyrinthine system of clogged one way streets that become even less endearing for the motorist and passengers when it buckets down with rain, which is a frequent occurrence. 

Being a westerner, I always need to work out my orientation when I come to a new city. Bandung is a bit bewildering as you have to keep your wits about you if you try and get anywhere by foot. So I have decided to use the railway line as my point of reference; it runs east -west. And then if you find a roof top bar for sunset drinks, you can also work out which direction you are pointing toward. 

I’ve visited Bandung a few times now. My husband has a vintage car being repaired here (another story for another day…), and we stumbled across a massive homewares warehouse run by a lady who happened to attend the same vocational college as him — they chatted for ages. She gave me a tip to try a particular eggplant dish that Jokowi, Indonesia’s former president, apparently orders whenever he’s in town. I quickly added that to my to-eat list.

Here is a list of places I have visited and recommend if you come to Bandung for 2-3 days:

1. A walk along Jalan Braga and a Bandros Tour

Jalan Braga is a pedestrian zone which Instagram will tell you is full of vibrant art and cool people but really it is a bit of a sad avenue of tourists and people lining up to get their photo taken. The art markets are for Instagram backdrop only and the antiques stores are fun as long as you go in there and treat them like a museum rather than a shop, as they are well set out and the owners genuinely friendly, but they are extortionately expensive- no bargaining here. 

I found myself sipping iced tea and enjoying a Nasi Campur at the local Rock Café, which has cool vintage rock memorabilia owned (or at least part owned? I am not sure but he has something to do with it) by Iwan Fals, lead singer and guitarist of Penyanyi Rock, one of Indonesia’s legendary hard rock bands. That led me down an extremely entertaining rabbit hole of Indonesian rock on Spotify. 

At the end of Braga, you’ll find the Bandros — open-air tram-style vehicles that offer a laid-back city tour (in Indonesian, but lots of pointing and smiling and attempts at remembering my language lessons goes a long way). It’s a great way to see Bandung’s colonial and art deco architecture, shaded boulevards, and key landmarks like the Geology Museum and the Gedung Sate. The full ride lasts about 40 minutes and circles back to Braga.

2. Antique Market Treasure Hunt

3. The Geology Museum

This place is a treat. A mammoth skeleton greets you at the entrance, and the rest is basically a love letter to Java’s incredible geological history. As a foreigner with light coloured hair, I  was probably more of an attraction to the dozens of school kids than the rocks themselves, but it was worth the awkward selfies.

4. NuArt Sculpture Park

A Grab ride out to the suburbs brought me to NuArt Sculpture Park—a beautifully curated space nestled in lush, manicured gardens. The park exhibits the works of renowned sculptor Nyoman Nuarta. At the entrance, visitors are greeted by an impressive collection of his sculptures predominantly made from copper and brass. On the second floor are paintings and other artistic creations, and then the third level opens into a sculpture garden. According to the website, the park’s philosophy is rooted in Tri Hita Karana, which reflects harmony with God, humanity, and nature.

One highlight is the model of Nuarta’s most ambitious masterpiece: the Garuda Wisnu Kencana, a towering 120-metre sculpture located in Uluwatu, Bali, depicting the god Wisnu riding the mythical bird Garuda. 

5. Kawah Putih

I booked a guide online for a day trip out to Kawah Putih, which, on the map, looks deceptively close. In reality, it’s a two-hour drive thanks to increasingly narrow, steep, and congested roads as you climb into the hills.

As you enter the park, there is a concrete statue of a sheep. I thought this to be a bit odd- given there aren’t many sheep in Java. Goats, maybe? My guide explained it had been erected to honor the local belief in some mystical ancestors.

Continuing with the wisdom of animals, legend also has it that birds would refuse to fly over the crater. According to Sundanese folklore, birds that flew over the lake would drop dead, and villagers believed the area was home to powerful spirits. Can you blame them? A silent, steaming lake with strange colors and the occasional bird falling from the sky—it must have seemed like something out of a strange dream. It wasn’t until the 19th century that a German botanist, Franz Wilhelm Junghuhn, (busy man- we have met him already earlier in the blog) investigated and found that the sulfuric gases were the real culprit. 

This blend of superstition and science says a lot about Javanese and Sundanese culture. Nature isn’t just something to admire; it’s something to respect, sometimes even fear. The spirits believed to reside in places like Kawah Putih reflect a worldview where the natural and supernatural are closely connected.

The Dutch later built a sulphur mine here, followed by the Japanese during occupation, and remnants of these industrial ventures are still visible today. 

Kawah Putih — or White Crater — is a stunning volcanic crater lake, sitting at 2,430 meters above sea level. On a clear day, the lake glows with eerie, ever-shifting colors — bluish, whitish green, or even brown — thanks to its highly acidic waters (pH 0.5–1.3) and the level of sulphur in the air. The smell is unforgettable — think rotten eggs. Sadly, when I went, the fog was so thick I didn’t actually see the lake. It was just a shroud of white. 

Kawah Putih isn’t just a nostril assault- it is said to be sacred, a gathering place for ancestral spirits. I couldn’t find much on the internet in English, so what I found in Indonesian has been shabbily translated by me from of an article by listed in my references: 

According to Abah Karna, a 105-year-old spiritual guardian (the article is a few years old so the guardian may not be with us any more) from nearby Sugih Mukti village, the lake is surrounded by the graves of ancestors. One peak, Puncak Kapuk, is believed to be their meeting point — and, at certain times, shrouded in fog that resembles tufts of white wool. Locals speak of Lukutan sheep — white sheep that appear mysteriously on the mountain, believed to be manifestations of ancestral spirits. 

My guide explained to me that if I were to see a sheep on the mountain, it would mean that the spirits were looking after me. So imagine my excitement when I saw two running along an embankment as we were driving back down to Bandung. Sheep- not goats (I had a close look because I get excited when I see a sheep as I have a pet at home in Australia and he acts like a dog, is very loveable I and I miss him) and they were remarkably white given their perpetual proximity to mud. I excitedly told the guide about it but he was too focussed on the busy road to turn his head.

I have no other photos of this place because when I went there it was one of the foggiest days on record and I couldn’t see ANYTHING except white fog. Luckily I was easily impressed by the sheep instead.

6. Hot Springs and a Cup of Tea

On the same day as I visited Kawah Putih, I also visited a tea plantation and some hot springs-  which I almost had to myself. This is very rare in Java. It is hard to feel alone. It was drizzling with rain and I was toughing it out with my flimsy raincoat on. I dipped my hands in the warm water and dabbed some mud on a small infection — and honestly, it did seem to help. Magical healing properties? Maybe. Or just hot, mineral-rich water.

I didn’t take any photos at that bit as I didn’t want my phone to get wet and it was so slippery I needed both hands free to keep my balance.

One highlight (!) was being ferried across a canyon in a basket dangling from zipline cables. It was a wobbly one way trip- I was happy to walk the path back to the main building. 

I was particularly excited to visit a tea plantation visitor’s centre, imagining vertical tastings and rich history. Instead, I got a cup of hot brown liquid in a paper cup from a giant urn. Apparently, tea doesn’t have much prestige in Java — my guide explained it’s seen as a “poor person’s drink,” while coffee gets all the attention. (Hint- count how many Starbucks you can see whilst driving through Java. Indonesia produces its own yet the Seattle company is super popular here). I was told that 80% of the tea is for export, so maybe the product for the domestic market is not as nice? Still, I bought some tasty white tea leaves from a vendor at a strawberry farm and they produce a good brew. 

7. Shopping

I don’t consider shopping a leisure activity—I already have way too much stuff, and I’m way too fat to fit into any of the clothes anyway. That said, Ms E did find a T-shirt shop that only sold black T-shirts with band motifs on the front, so that was an exception.

Bandung is known for its outlet shopping and is often referred to as the “Paris of Java.” There’s even a shopping centre called Paris Van Java. It’s open-air and quite pleasant to wander around—even if you’re not in the mood to buy anything.

Pasar Baru near the city centre is a bit more authentic and fun- a bustling hive of clothing and shoes and souvenirs. The snack vendors are friendly and as you walk there you can also choose a new pair of eyeglasses or some ceiling light fixtures as the surrounding streets seem to be the headquarters for these items. The tourist website for Bandung explains the area in a much more fun way: “ A sensation of old fashioned shopping style which involves the interactive art of Bargaining.”

Compared to Jakarta, the prices here seemed very cheap (mostly the items had no price to encourage the abovementioned art of bargaining) but if they did have a price, for example a T-shirt was 25k- there is no way I would have thought it could ever be that cheap! It turns out that  vendors and small business owners come from far and wide to buy bulk textiles products to be distributed and sold in other parts of the country. The market is also known as the best place to hunt for special Muslim wear, such as hijabs. 

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8. Terong Raos (and other Sundanese foods)

The recommended place for Sundanese food was Pandan Wangi Bandung. This restaurant has a spacious hall filled with tables in a bamboo building with lots of natural breeze and light. 

Here I finally tried Terong Raos, which apparently means “delicious eggplant” in Sundanese. These are slices of eggplant coated in seasoned flour and deep-fried. Crispy on the outside, soft and creamy in the middle, with a mix of spices in the batter.

I had better talk about other foods here too in case you don’t have a particular penchant for eggplant. This area of Java is Sundanese- so many of the local vendors create the cuisine of the area. Sundanese is one of the three principal ethnic groups of the island of Java. The Sundanese, estimated to number about 32 million in the early 21st century, are a highland people of western Java, distinguished from the Javanese mainly by their language and their more demonstrative approach to Islam. According to a study in the  Biodiversitas, Journal of Biological Diversity, Sundanese people in West Java have been known for their tradition of consuming various vegetable plants (Lalab). The people obtain their vegetables from various sources, such as their homegardens, gardens, rice fields, Perhutani agroforests, and other non-farming sources, including markets, small village shops, and vegetable sellers. The vegetable plants are traditionally consumed as fresh raw salad and cooked vegetables, spices, and at least 12 main or basic types of Sundanese food meals. At the same time, various Sundanese chili sauces (Sambel) were documented in at least 14 types. 

Now that you know that, I am sure you would like to know about other specialities as well. I can’t eat anything fried, or anything sprinkled with MSG so I am often limited in my choices. (I was a bit sick after the eggplant but I should have known better. My curiosity often trumps my common sense). J had taken E and I to a night market on one of our trips and we had sates and urab. The main course of Sundanese food must include rice. There are plenty of food blogs you can look up to learn about the food.

9. The 1955 Bandung Conference

While I am not procrastinating about writing on this travel blog, I am a history teacher. I had never heard of the 1955 Bandung conference before living in Jakarta, and I am very upset about this as I think it is an event that needs to be known about! It could have been the start of a powerful force in the world during the Cold War. It would have also helped me understand the world a bit more too- it wasn’t just the two great superpowers who had all the power and influence. Hindsight/revisionism is a wonderful thing- so here is the story if you are still interested! I have used Tim Hannigan’s ‘A Brief History of Indonesia’ to learn about the details: 

In April 1955, delegates from 25 countries, including 13 serving prime ministers from newly independent countries gathered in Bandung. They came from places like India (Nehru was on the dais behind Sukarno) , Egypt, China, Ghana (then the Gold Coast), and Vietnam—nations shaking off colonial rule and figuring out how to stand on their own. The big idea? Stay neutral in the Cold War and work together as former colonies rather than being pulled into the orbit of the U.S. or the Soviet Union. For Indonesia, hosting the conference was a huge deal. It put them at the center of something bigger—a movement for independence, cooperation, and self-determination. It put Indonesian President Sukarno on the world stage. At the opening ceremony he was at the head of the room, backed by a row of flags. Sukarno, dressed in a pristine white suit and a black velvet peci, the fez type cap which seems to be a symbol of Indonesian nationalism, shuffled his papers and began to speak.

‘As I survey this halland the distinguished guests gathered here, my heart is filled with emotion’, Sukarno declared.’This is the first intercontinental conference of coloured peoples- so-called coloured peoples- in the history of mankind!’

‘Our nations and countries are colonies no more’, he told the crowd. ‘We are now free, sovereign and independent. We are again masters in our own house’

It was a proud moment for Indonesia- although it must be noted that the conference was the idea of the Indonesian Prime Minister Sastroamidjojo.  ‘Yes there is diversity among us. Who denies it? ‘ Sukarno said, pausing for dramatic effect- ‘But again, what harm is in diversity, when there is unity in desire?’

Fast forward to today, and these countries have taken very different paths. Some of the Bandung nations are thriving; others not so much. U Nu of Burma had been sitting next to Nehru, grinning enthusiastically according to onlookers of the time. Myanmar today is still grappling with the aftershocks of an earthquake and perpetual civil unrest. I wonder what happened to that vision of unity? Ultimately, the conference was a ‘mild declaration of brotherhood in anti-colonialism.’ 

Reading further into the story, Sukarno was actually hamstrung by many internal issues including a massive monetary debt to their former Dutch overlords. In 1955 this suave, charismatic leader was a figurehead of a country struggling to come to terms with its newfound independence. 

In Bandung itself, the conference is remembered, but mostly in street names like Jalan Asia Afrika and the old Gedung Merdeka building, now a museum. But how often do we walk those streets, thinking about what Bandung meant? Does a conference from 1955 still matter in today’s world, where economic power and military alliances seem to dictate global politics? Is there a Starbucks next door? 

The Bandung Conference was supposed to be the beginning of something big. Instead, it feels more like a footnote in history. But should it be? Is there still a place for the ideas of cooperation and independence it championed? And if developing nations still struggle with neocolonialism, debt, and global inequality, could the spirit of Bandung actually be more relevant than we realise?

10. Bandung nature

Bandung is a city that constantly reminds us all of the forces of nature and of its own history. It’s a bit shabby, a bit chaotic and it’s recommended to carry an umbrella. Many people come here to do nature walks- a friend of mine posts photos of her weekly hashes through the foothills and hills, with the city as their background. The number of outdoor apparel stores across the city also hints at this. Look up the AllTrails site for some inspiration here. I have never been walking here so I can’t comment.

11. Saung Angklung Udjo Cultural Show 

Now bear with me here. Yes, this is a cheesy tourist trap. But it was so good! My Kawah Putih guide had this on his generic itinerary and I was happy to have a look. Here you will find the Sudanese traditional bamboo musical concert performed by a small group of children who perform dances whilst wearing beautiful ceremonial clothing. Everyone was having fun and I was dragged up to dance despite my lack-lustre protestations. I was fully engaged as I had also had to listen carefully and learn to play Angklung and the whole audience became an orchestra. A complimentary souvenir was a necklace with a little Angklung on it, which I now treasure. It seems to be a popular place to take school groups and bewildered tourists. It’s very loud, it’s very in your face, and there were way too many people who shouldn’t be allowed near a microphone-  but I loved it.  

Summary

Take an umbrella. Have fun.

References

Hannigan, Tim. A Brief History of Indonesia: Sultans, Spices, and Tsunamis. Tuttle Publishing, 2015. 

Hassani, Yuga. “Sepenggal Kisah Kawah Putih: Eksplorasi Junghuhn Dan Sosok DombaLukutan.”www.detik.com/jabar/wisata/d-6064635/sepenggal-kisah-kawah-putih-eksplorasi-junghuhn-dan-sosok-domba-lukutan. Accessed 8 Mar. 2025.

Iskandar, B. S., Irawan, B., Mulyanto, D., Iskandar, J., Afinanda, A. and Rajab, B. “Gastronomic Ethnobotany of Traditional Vegetables among the Sundanese in Rural West Java, Indonesia.” Biodiversitas Journal of Biological Diversity, smujo.id/biodiv/article/view/14800. Accessed 5 Apr. 2025.